Kilbeggan Distillery Tour: Visiting Ireland’s Oldest Licensed Whiskey Distillery

Winter in Dublin can be a dreary affair. Darkness falls by 4 p.m., and a dull grey sky hovers indefinitely over the city, pressing down on red-brick houses and glass office buildings like a pressure cooker—almost suffocating. In an attempt to escape another gloomy weekend indoors in the capital, I hit the road westward for a day trip through the Irish countryside.

As I drive along the empty motorway toward Galway, the sky gradually clears and the horizon finally opens up. I cross into County Westmeath beneath a pastel-blue sky, where a timid sun welcomes me to Kilbeggan, my destination for the day. Unusually for me, it’s not a castle or a ruined abbey that has drawn me to this quiet corner of the Irish Midlands, but a rather unique distillery at the heart of the little town.

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Leaving nothing to chance, I booked a guided tour of Kilbeggan Distillery several days in advance. But when I arrive and pull into the deserted visitor car park at the back of the distillery, all I find is silence. So much for my obsession with travel planning!

The tour, however, turns out to be a journey through time—one that few, if any, other distilleries in Ireland can match. Founded in 1757 by Matthias McManus, Kilbeggan Distillery has, despite its ups and downs and several changes in ownership over the years, miraculously retained its original machinery.

As our small group of visitors makes its way beneath the beams of an old stone building, enormous washbacks—wooden fermentation vats—come into view. The surrounding darkness makes it nearly impossible to tell how deep they are. Remarkably, the old steam engine is still in working order. It was originally installed to power the distillery during the rare times when the flow of the River Brosna wasn’t strong enough to drive the mighty waterwheel, which is still visible from outside.

Stories are shared, bringing the old distillery back to life—like the not-so-hygienic habit workers had of using the distillery’s hot water tank to bathe. I don’t blame them! Who could resist the lure of a makeshift jacuzzi after a long day of pushing barrels?

Outside, the distillery’s old chimney stands silent. Tall and narrow, it keeps a watchful eye over the barracks lying at its foot. Painted in bold white letters down its neck of red brick, the name “Locke” is still clearly visible from a distance. Bought in 1843 by John Locke, Kilbeggan Distillery thrived under his leadership and that of his sons.

However, the 20th century proved fatal to Locke’s enterprise. A food shortage during World War I forced distilling to be suspended in 1917. Like many Irish whiskey producers, Kilbeggan later lost its most important market—the United States—following the onset of Prohibition, and it struggled to compete with the growing popularity of Scotch whisky. The situation became dire, and production at Kilbeggan had to cease entirely between 1924 and 1931.

The third generation of the Locke family, now at the helm, was unable to restore the distillery’s former glory. An increase in excise tax by the Irish government was the final nail in the coffin, and production ceased for good in 1953.

What remained of the distillery, from the fermentation tanks to the pot stills, was saved in 1982 by a local organisation, which transformed Kilbeggan Distillery into a museum and even restored its precious waterwheel.

In 1987, the site was bought by Cooley Distillery, and the distillation of the famous uisce beatha finally resumed in 2007, marking the 250th anniversary of its founding. Thanks to an annual payment of five pounds by its owners to maintain the distilling license, Kilbeggan can proudly claim the title of the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in Ireland.

After contemplating the past, visitors are welcomed into the present. Just across the central courtyard—only ten steps from the old distillery—the new facility has brought the Kilbeggan name back to life. The smell of malted barley once again swirls around brand-new fermentation tanks, while copper stills with their elegant swan necks stand proudly in the new still room, like iconic works of art one simply must see when visiting a renowned museum.

Breaking with the Irish tradition of triple-distilled whiskey, Kilbeggan uses only two stills to produce a double-distilled spirit. According to our guide, triple distillation has become something of a fad among new Irish distilleries—a misguided attempt to appear traditional. Modern distillation techniques, he explains, have made triple distillation largely unnecessary, as the same level of purity can now be achieved through just two passes.

In the tasting room, adorned with black-and-white photographs from a bygone era, polished wooden counters mounted on large barrels serve as tasting stations. Several whiskies produced by Cooley are on the menu. As the designated driver, I’m offered the option to take samples home to enjoy later—an offer I gladly accept.

Bottles of various shapes, sizes, and colours—ranging from gold to green—take centre stage as they are dutifully introduced by our passionate guide, a skilled salesman in disguise. Very smooth and ideal for cocktails, Kilbeggan Traditional, the distillery’s flagship product, quickly wins the approval of most in the room. Its Triple Cask expression, matured in three different types of barrels, appeals to those who prefer a whiskey with more character and complexity.

Green and stocky-looking, the Connemara bottle stands out among its taller, slimmer sisters. Also produced by Cooley—though not under the Kilbeggan roof—Connemara boasts numerous awards from the world of whiskey. This single malt has a distinctive peated aroma, thanks to a process inspired by 18th-century methods of drying barley over a peat fire. Connoisseurs will appreciate it; some (myself included) may not.

As the tasting draws to a close, our guide mentions that the distillery is the only place in Ireland where Kilbeggan whiskey is available for purchase, making a detour to the shop feel inevitable. After browsing through chocolates and other treats, I surrender to FOMO, and a bottle of the gleaming liquid is duly brought to the car. As I drive back toward the dull capital, the sudden promise of delicious summer cocktails to come makes Dublin’s gloomy winter sky feel a little more bearable.

Where is Kilbeggan Distillery?

Kilbeggan Distillery sits on the banks of the River Brosna, which flows through the town of the same name in County Westmeath. Kilbeggan itself is a small, quiet town in the Irish Midlands—about an hour’s drive west of Dublin—that owes its name to St. Bécán, who founded a monastery here in the 6th century.

Perfectly located just off the M6 motorway, which connects Dublin to Galway, Kilbeggan makes for an easy and worthwhile stop if you’re heading toward the west coast.

How to Get to Kilbeggan Distillery?

By far the easiest way to reach Kilbeggan Distillery is by car. The drive from Dublin takes roughly an hour, thanks to the convenient motorway that runs just south of the town. From Galway, the distillery is about a 90-minute drive.

A large, free car park is available at the back of the distillery.

Citylink bus no. 763, which runs several times a day between Dublin Airport and Galway, also stops in Kilbeggan. You can catch it at Dublin Heuston Station as well. The bus drops you in the centre of Kilbeggan, and the distillery is just a 10-minute walk from there.

Where to Stay Near Kilbeggan?

You won’t find much in terms of accommodation in Kilbeggan if you decide to stay overnight in the area. It’s best to base yourself in Tullamore instead, just a 10-minute drive from Kilbeggan. The town has a selection of restaurants and offers several options for an overnight stay.

FAQ

What are Kilbeggan Distillery opening hours?

Kilbeggan Distillery is open year-round, including Saturdays and Sundays. The Distillery Experience tour begins at 10 a.m. and runs up to five times a day between March 17 and October 31, with fewer tours scheduled during the low season.

How long and how much is the tour?

The Distillery Experience tour lasts between 90 minutes and 2 hours, including the whiskey tasting at the end. Tickets cost €35, offering excellent value for money given the depth of the experience. If you plan to browse the shop afterwards (and you should!), be sure to allow yourself a little extra time.

Do I need to book my guided tour?

During the low season, visitors don’t necessarily need to book a tour in advance, though it’s a good idea to check the schedule online before arriving, as tour times may vary. In the high season, however, booking ahead is highly recommended; tour buses regularly stop at the distillery, and tours can fill up quickly.

What if I don’t drink?

You don’t have to be a whiskey drinker to enjoy a tour at Kilbeggan Distillery. Whether you’re the designated driver, not a fan of whiskey, or simply don’t drink, the visit—and the rich history behind it—is still well worth your time. While a tasting is included, there’s no pressure to take part—you’re welcome to simply listen in. Drivers are offered takeaway samples to enjoy at home, so you won’t miss out on anything.

What should I wear for the tour?

When visiting Kilbeggan Distillery, it’s best to dress for the weather—especially in the colder months. The tour takes place in old buildings that aren’t heated, and part of the experience includes time outdoors. If you’re visiting during autumn or winter, be sure to wear warm, weather-appropriate clothing like a good jacket and sturdy shoes to stay comfortable throughout the tour.

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I earn a little money at no extra cost to you.